Custom D&D miniature from your character art: how to commission one
You have art of your character. Maybe you drew it, maybe you commissioned it. Now you want that exact character on the table, not the nearest match from a menu. That's three jobs, often done by different people: sculpting a 3D model from the art, printing it, and painting it. This page covers how to get all three right.
Your options
| Route | What you get | Matches your art? | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Online character builders | Pick body, gear and pose from menus; buy a print or file | Close, not exact | Fast and cheap when your character fits the options |
| AI image-to-3D tools | A model generated from one image | Front only; the rest is guessed | Quick drafts and virtual tabletops |
| Commissioned sculpt | A sculptor models your character from your references | Yes, with revisions | Unique designs, specific gear, signature poses |
Builder roundups mostly list menu-based tools. They're good, but they can't follow your art. AI tools can, partly. One guide to an image-to-3D generator is honest about the limit: "Everything it can't see, it invents, and it invents badly." Backs of cloaks, weapons held behind the body and anything hidden in the art come out wrong. Its STL also still needs supports, cleanup and printing skill.
If the details matter, commission a sculptor.
What to send the sculptor
The better your references, the fewer revision rounds you pay for.
- The art. Full body, as large as you have it. Front-facing with a plain background is ideal.
- Other angles. Side and back, even rough sketches. If you don't have them, describe the back in words.
- Gear list. Weapon in which hand, shield, cloak, pouches, familiar. Say what's essential and what can be dropped.
- Pose. Copy the art, or something more dynamic? Tell them if it needs to stand on a standard grid base.
- Size category. Medium humanoid, Small halfling, Large companion. Character sizes on commission forms often run from Tiny to Colossal.
- Scale. 28 mm and 32 mm are the common tabletop scales. Match the rest of your minis.
- Base. Round, square, scenic or none.
- Paint colours. Even if the art is in colour, list the key ones in words.
The process, step by step
Specialist studios describe roughly the same flow. You share sketches, character sheets or a description. The sculptor sends previews and you give feedback. You approve the design, then choose files, a print or both.
Ask for renders from several angles before anything is printed. It's the cheapest point to fix a face or a sword. Agree in advance how many revision rounds are included.
Printing and painting
Tabletop minis with fine detail are usually resin-printed. If you're getting the files and printing elsewhere, ask the sculptor to supply them pre-supported, or say who adds supports.
Painting is its own skill and is often quoted separately. Decide on a level:
- Tabletop: clean base colours and shading. Looks good at arm's length.
- Display: layered highlights, eyes, fine detail. Made for close-up photos.
You can hire one maker for all three steps or split them. Splitting can work well, but make sure the sculptor's file is set up for the printer you'll use.
File rights
Agree this up front. Can you reprint the file if the mini breaks? Can you share it with your table? Can the sculptor sell or post the model? Terms vary between sculptors, so put the answer in writing.
Resin vs FDM for minis: when each wins
Both methods print good miniatures. They differ in detail, cost drivers and how much cleanup you get. Here is when each one is the better order.
The comparison
| Resin | FDM | |
|---|---|---|
| Fine detail (faces, chain, text) | Excellent | Fair at 28 mm, good at larger scales |
| Layer lines | Almost invisible | Visible until sanded |
| What pushes the price | Wash, cure and support cleanup; model size | Print time; sanding if you want a smooth finish |
| Strength | Brittle, snaps at thin parts | Tougher, bends before breaking |
| Cleanup | Wash, cure, remove supports | Remove supports, sand |
| Best for | Characters, small scale, display | Terrain, vehicles, large monsters |
Model size, count and cleanup move the price more than the method. A monster or vehicle costs more than an infantry model on either process. Ask for both options in your post and compare the bids.
Resin wins for characters and small scale
At 28 mm and below, resin holds faces, fingers and weapon edges that FDM smears. If you plan to paint at tabletop+ or display level, start with resin. Painters notice fine detail, and layer lines show through thin paint.
The catch is fragility. Thin swords and spears snap in transit. Ask the printer to pin or thicken weak parts.
FDM wins for big pieces and terrain
Vehicles, buildings and large monsters print faster and cheaper on FDM. Layer lines matter less at that size, and a coat of primer and texture hides most of them. FDM parts also survive shipping and play far better.
Per-file pricing
If you own an STL, you can pay per file instead of per model. The printer sets up supports and orientation, prints it, and cleans it. Say which files you own and whether they are licensed for commission printing.
Painted and printed together
For a full army, order print and paint from one maker or match the two carefully. The painter should see a printed sample before they quote. Printed models need a good primer, and some resins need washing again before paint will stick.
What to say in your post
State the scale, the material you prefer or "maker's choice," and whether you want support marks cleaned off. Photos of your STL renders help printers quote accurately.
Need a quote? Post your files or your brief on The Spool List. Posting is free, and printers can bid on either material so you compare real bids.
How to photograph minis for a brief
A good photo saves a painter an hour of questions and gets you sharper bids. You need a phone, a window and five minutes.
Set up
- Light: Shoot near a window in daylight. Avoid yellow room lights, which change how colors read.
- Background: Plain white or grey paper. A sheet of printer paper works.
- Steady phone: Prop it on a stack of books. Blur hides detail.
- Focus: Tap the model on screen so the face is sharp.
Shots to take
- The whole batch. Lay every model out in rows. This lets a painter count them and see the mix of types.
- Front, back and side of one model. Three photos of a typical infantry model show the sculpt and any mold lines.
- Close-ups of hard spots. Fine faces, open cloaks, tight gaps between limbs. Painters price these separately.
- A scale reference. Put a coin next to one model. It tells the painter the scale at a glance.
- Damage or flaws. Photograph broken bases, bent weapons and missing parts. Say who repairs them.
Show the state of the models
Tell the painter if the minis are on the sprue, built, primed, stripped or already painted. Stripping old paint is extra work, and painters price it into the bid.
Reference photos for the scheme
If you want a scheme matched, photograph a finished model in daylight from three sides. Add a photo of the paint pots you used, with the labels facing the camera. A written paint list is even better.
If you want a new look, send two or three pictures of painted models you admire. Write one line about what you like in each.
Keep files usable
Upload the original photos, not screenshots. Name them clearly, such as "infantry-front" and "batch-all." Ten clear photos beat forty vague ones.
Ready to send yours? Post your minis on The Spool List and attach the photos to your brief.
Resin vs FDM for minis: when each wins
Both methods print good miniatures. They differ in detail, cost drivers and how much cleanup you get. Here is when each one is the better order.
The comparison
| Resin | FDM | |
|---|---|---|
| Fine detail (faces, chain, text) | Excellent | Fair at 28 mm, good at larger scales |
| Layer lines | Almost invisible | Visible until sanded |
| What pushes the price | Wash, cure and support cleanup; model size | Print time; sanding if you want a smooth finish |
| Strength | Brittle, snaps at thin parts | Tougher, bends before breaking |
| Cleanup | Wash, cure, remove supports | Remove supports, sand |
| Best for | Characters, small scale, display | Terrain, vehicles, large monsters |
Model size, count and cleanup move the price more than the method. A monster or vehicle costs more than an infantry model on either process. Ask for both options in your post and compare the bids.
Resin wins for characters and small scale
At 28 mm and below, resin holds faces, fingers and weapon edges that FDM smears. If you plan to paint at tabletop+ or display level, start with resin. Painters notice fine detail, and layer lines show through thin paint.
The catch is fragility. Thin swords and spears snap in transit. Ask the printer to pin or thicken weak parts.
FDM wins for big pieces and terrain
Vehicles, buildings and large monsters print faster and cheaper on FDM. Layer lines matter less at that size, and a coat of primer and texture hides most of them. FDM parts also survive shipping and play far better.
Per-file pricing
If you own an STL, you can pay per file instead of per model. The printer sets up supports and orientation, prints it, and cleans it. Say which files you own and whether they are licensed for commission printing.
Painted and printed together
For a full army, order print and paint from one maker or match the two carefully. The painter should see a printed sample before they quote. Printed models need a good primer, and some resins need washing again before paint will stick.
What to say in your post
State the scale, the material you prefer or "maker's choice," and whether you want support marks cleaned off. Photos of your STL renders help printers quote accurately.
Need a quote? Post your files or your brief on The Spool List. Posting is free, and printers can bid on either material so you compare real bids.
How to photograph minis for a brief
A good photo saves a painter an hour of questions and gets you sharper bids. You need a phone, a window and five minutes.
Set up
- Light: Shoot near a window in daylight. Avoid yellow room lights, which change how colors read.
- Background: Plain white or grey paper. A sheet of printer paper works.
- Steady phone: Prop it on a stack of books. Blur hides detail.
- Focus: Tap the model on screen so the face is sharp.
Shots to take
- The whole batch. Lay every model out in rows. This lets a painter count them and see the mix of types.
- Front, back and side of one model. Three photos of a typical infantry model show the sculpt and any mold lines.
- Close-ups of hard spots. Fine faces, open cloaks, tight gaps between limbs. Painters price these separately.
- A scale reference. Put a coin next to one model. It tells the painter the scale at a glance.
- Damage or flaws. Photograph broken bases, bent weapons and missing parts. Say who repairs them.
Show the state of the models
Tell the painter if the minis are on the sprue, built, primed, stripped or already painted. Stripping old paint is extra work, and painters price it into the bid.
Reference photos for the scheme
If you want a scheme matched, photograph a finished model in daylight from three sides. Add a photo of the paint pots you used, with the labels facing the camera. A written paint list is even better.
If you want a new look, send two or three pictures of painted models you admire. Write one line about what you like in each.
Keep files usable
Upload the original photos, not screenshots. Name them clearly, such as "infantry-front" and "batch-all." Ten clear photos beat forty vague ones.
Ready to send yours? Post your minis on The Spool List and attach the photos to your brief.
Resin vs FDM for minis: when each wins
Both methods print good miniatures. They differ in detail, cost drivers and how much cleanup you get. Here is when each one is the better order.
The comparison
| Resin | FDM | |
|---|---|---|
| Fine detail (faces, chain, text) | Excellent | Fair at 28 mm, good at larger scales |
| Layer lines | Almost invisible | Visible until sanded |
| What pushes the price | Wash, cure and support cleanup; model size | Print time; sanding if you want a smooth finish |
| Strength | Brittle, snaps at thin parts | Tougher, bends before breaking |
| Cleanup | Wash, cure, remove supports | Remove supports, sand |
| Best for | Characters, small scale, display | Terrain, vehicles, large monsters |
Model size, count and cleanup move the price more than the method. A monster or vehicle costs more than an infantry model on either process. Ask for both options in your post and compare the bids.
Resin wins for characters and small scale
At 28 mm and below, resin holds faces, fingers and weapon edges that FDM smears. If you plan to paint at tabletop+ or display level, start with resin. Painters notice fine detail, and layer lines show through thin paint.
The catch is fragility. Thin swords and spears snap in transit. Ask the printer to pin or thicken weak parts.
FDM wins for big pieces and terrain
Vehicles, buildings and large monsters print faster and cheaper on FDM. Layer lines matter less at that size, and a coat of primer and texture hides most of them. FDM parts also survive shipping and play far better.
Per-file pricing
If you own an STL, you can pay per file instead of per model. The printer sets up supports and orientation, prints it, and cleans it. Say which files you own and whether they are licensed for commission printing.
Painted and printed together
For a full army, order print and paint from one maker or match the two carefully. The painter should see a printed sample before they quote. Printed models need a good primer, and some resins need washing again before paint will stick.
What to say in your post
State the scale, the material you prefer or "maker's choice," and whether you want support marks cleaned off. Photos of your STL renders help printers quote accurately.
Need a quote? Post your files or your brief on The Spool List. Posting is free, and printers can bid on either material so you compare real bids.
How to photograph minis for a brief
A good photo saves a painter an hour of questions and gets you sharper bids. You need a phone, a window and five minutes.
Set up
- Light: Shoot near a window in daylight. Avoid yellow room lights, which change how colors read.
- Background: Plain white or grey paper. A sheet of printer paper works.
- Steady phone: Prop it on a stack of books. Blur hides detail.
- Focus: Tap the model on screen so the face is sharp.
Shots to take
- The whole batch. Lay every model out in rows. This lets a painter count them and see the mix of types.
- Front, back and side of one model. Three photos of a typical infantry model show the sculpt and any mold lines.
- Close-ups of hard spots. Fine faces, open cloaks, tight gaps between limbs. Painters price these separately.
- A scale reference. Put a coin next to one model. It tells the painter the scale at a glance.
- Damage or flaws. Photograph broken bases, bent weapons and missing parts. Say who repairs them.
Show the state of the models
Tell the painter if the minis are on the sprue, built, primed, stripped or already painted. Stripping old paint is extra work, and painters price it into the bid.
Reference photos for the scheme
If you want a scheme matched, photograph a finished model in daylight from three sides. Add a photo of the paint pots you used, with the labels facing the camera. A written paint list is even better.
If you want a new look, send two or three pictures of painted models you admire. Write one line about what you like in each.
Keep files usable
Upload the original photos, not screenshots. Name them clearly, such as "infantry-front" and "batch-all." Ten clear photos beat forty vague ones.
Ready to send yours? Post your minis on The Spool List and attach the photos to your brief.
FAQ
Can I commission a mini from art someone else drew? Usually yes for personal use, but credit the artist and check their terms. Some artists don't allow derivative work.
Do I need to supply a 3D file? No. Supplying art and a description is the point of a sculpt commission. If you do have a file, say so and you're just hiring printing and painting.
Should I get the STL or just the printed mini? Get the STL if you can. It means you can reprint, rescale or repaint later without paying for a new sculpt.
How long does it take? It depends on the detail, the number of revisions and each maker's queue. Put your session date in the brief.
Can I order a whole party? Yes. Post them as one job with art for each character. Ask whether a matched set changes the price per mini.
Post your character art free on The Spool List and get bids for sculpting, printing and painting.